Thursday, July 22, 2010

8 Techniques for getting great looking hand-held shots

I have used dozens of makes and models of cameras in my almost 40 years of film production, television production and digital video production. While I usually use a tripod or some other camera stabilizing equipment sometimes the hand-held shot is the best way to go - either because a tripod is unfeasible or you want the “point of view” style. OK, the hand-held look can be stylish but it still bothers me to see a dramatic television production or movie where the actors are standing still but the camera seems to be constantly moving and it looks like the camera operator is very nervous or very tired.

I’ve always encouraged my filmmaking school students to use a tripod or camera stabilizing equipment to keep it from bobbing around like flotsam on a restless ocean. However, there are times, especially during documentary shooting, when a tripod is just not efficient.

Today’s cameras have resulted in the loss of two of the best parts of the camera that can be used to steady the hand-held shot: the side mounted viewfinder pressing against your eye so your head helps steady the camera; and the extra support of the camera on your shoulder. Today’s lighter, smaller cameras and the fact that the diopter (eye piece) viewfinder is often on the rear of the camera have forced us to figure out other ways of keeping our shots from looking like they were shot by Mr. Jack In The Box. When thinking about how to make videos involving hand-held shots, here are eight methods:

1. Use the Diopter Viewfinder. Even if it’s mounted at the back of the camera, pressing it
against your eye will help to steady it.

2. Hold the Camera With Two Hands. One hand will do most of the movement while the other hand (usually holding the camera flat on your palm, just near the lens) will help to keep the camera steady and properly horizontal.

3. When Standing Still Keep Your Feet About 6 - 8 Inches Apart, Legs Straight. If you have to pan further than a few degrees, you can swivel at the waist then carefully use your feet to walk the rotation around.

4. Stand Against any Solid Structure. Interior support pillars, door frames, tall heavy furniture such as a filing cabinet or, when outside, a solid tree, building wall or sign post will help. Sometimes you can even press the camera itself against a solid object.

5. Stand With the Camera Held Under Your Arm Against Your Body. You can do this if the focal distance to the subject is far enough away that lowering your camera won’t be a problem. You’ll be able to see what’s going on in frame by rotating the LCD screen up.

6. Control Your Breath. If you’re breathing hard the motion will cause the camera to move. The opposite is true if you keep your breathing shallow. Often, if I must zoom in, I hold my breath, but only if I know that I’ll be able to zoom out before I’m gasping for air which will show up in the shot.

7. DO NOT ZOOM IN UNLESS NECESSARY. This is most important! As the lens becomes
more and more telephoto the shot will get shakier and shakier. Instead of standing 8 feet from your subject and zooming in for that nice head and shoulders shot, try standing 3 feet away using a wide lens. You’ll still get the shot with less chance of causing motion sickness.

8. Always be Aware of Horizontal and Vertical Lines. When shooting indoors and you can see where the wall meets the floor in your frame - and you’re standing perpendicular to the wall - the horizontal line where wall meets floor should cut across your frame without any discernible slope. If you can’t see the floor maybe you could use the vertical line where two walls meet. If it appears slanted you should correct your shot. Try to get in the habit of constantly checking this during the shot.

Hope this helps make your hand-held shots more professional looking. If you want to learn more, check out my eBook, “Mike’sTextbook of Digital Video Production” at http://www.mikesdvp.com.

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